雙溝美酒貢清廷 圣(sheng)祖喜設“千叟宴(yan)”
——雙溝(gou)酒與康(kang)熙“千叟宴(yan)”的傳說
朱澤孝(xiao)
雙溝(gou)大(da)曲釀造歷史悠(you)久,源遠流長,到明(ming)清時(shi)進入鼎(ding)盛階段(duan),產(chan)品日臻(zhen)完美。泗州府作為地方一大(da)特(te)產(chan)進貢朝廷。相傳,清圣(sheng)祖康熙皇帝在(zai)他60歲生日期間,曾用(yong)雙溝(gou)美酒在(zai)“千叟宴(yan)”上與全國(guo)65歲以上老(lao)人同(tong)席飲用(yong),尊老(lao)敬老(lao)傳為美談。
愛新覺羅·玄燁生(sheng)于1654年(nian)(nian)(nian),八(ba)歲(1661年(nian)(nian)(nian))登皇帝位(wei),立帝號(hao)康(kang)(kang)熙(xi)(xi)(xi),1722年(nian)(nian)(nian)前在(zai)(zai)位(wei),當61年(nian)(nian)(nian)皇帝。在(zai)(zai)他(ta)統治期內,可以稱得上(shang)是(shi)我國(guo)幾千年(nian)(nian)(nian)封建王朝(chao)中(zhong)一(yi)代“中(zhong)興(xing)之主”。由于康(kang)(kang)熙(xi)(xi)(xi)朝(chao)奠定了良好的基(ji)礎(chu),在(zai)(zai)他(ta)的子孫(sun)雍正(zheng)、乾隆(long)朝(chao)也處于大清(qing)王朝(chao)穩定發(fa)展時期,史家(jia)稱這三代王朝(chao)為(wei)“康(kang)(kang)乾盛(sheng)世”。這是(shi)讓他(ta)后(hou)代繼位(wei)者們所望(wang)塵(chen)莫及的。康(kang)(kang)熙(xi)(xi)(xi)在(zai)(zai)位(wei)期間重(zhong)視農耕(geng)和水(shui)利,下令治理黃河(he)、淮(huai)(huai)河(he)及洪(hong)(hong)(hong)澤(ze)湖(hu)水(shui)患。他(ta)先(xian)后(hou)六(liu)次南下巡(xun)視。其中(zhong)康(kang)(kang)熙(xi)(xi)(xi)二(er)十(shi)(shi)八(ba)年(nian)(nian)(nian),第二(er)次南巡(xun)親自從(cong)宿(su)遷到(dao)歸(gui)仁集(今(jin)泗(si)(si)洪(hong)(hong)(hong)歸(gui)仁鎮(zhen))視察(cha)與淮(huai)(huai)河(he)、洪(hong)(hong)(hong)澤(ze)湖(hu)水(shui)患有(you)關的太皇堤(di);四十(shi)(shi)六(liu)年(nian)(nian)(nian)第六(liu)次南巡(xun),到(dao)達曹(cao)家(jia)廟(miao)(今(jin)泗(si)(si)洪(hong)(hong)(hong)曹(cao)廟(miao)鄉),又步行數十(shi)(shi)里到(dao)泗(si)(si)州境(jing)內的溜淮(huai)(huai)套,視察(cha)治理淮(huai)(huai)河(he)、洪(hong)(hong)(hong)澤(ze)湖(hu)配套工程(一(yi)說是(shi)雙溝西郊西鴨塘)。泗(si)(si)州知州親自接駕,并以雙溝美酒款待(dai)當今(jin)圣上(shang),康(kang)(kang)熙(xi)(xi)(xi)飲(yin)酒微(wei)量,但對雙溝酒贊賞有(you)加:“好酒!我大清(qing)一(yi)流!”
據有(you)關史料介紹,,康(kang)(kang)熙(xi)皇(huang)(huang)帝在60歲壽誕(dan)時(shi),親詔全國千(qian)(qian)名老(lao)(lao)(lao)年(nian)(nian)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)赴京歡(huan)度敬老(lao)(lao)(lao)宴(yan)(yan)(yan),亦稱“千(qian)(qian)叟(sou)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)”。赴宴(yan)(yan)(yan)老(lao)(lao)(lao)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)皆獲恩(en)賜和(he)賞金,并(bing)皆注入史冊。應邀者(zhe)不(bu)(bu)分(fen)(fen)男女(nv)、不(bu)(bu)分(fen)(fen)官(guan)(guan)民(min)、不(bu)(bu)分(fen)(fen)民(min)族,一(yi)視同仁。“行(xing)動(dong)不(bu)(bu)便的老(lao)(lao)(lao)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren),皇(huang)(huang)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)傳諭(yu)各州(zhou)、縣派車馬護送進(jin)京。在“千(qian)(qian)叟(sou)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)”上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang),康(kang)(kang)熙(xi)皇(huang)(huang)帝親自斟滿(man)泗州(zhou)特(te)別(bie)進(jin)貢的雙(shuang)(shuang)(shuang)溝(gou)美(mei)酒(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)為老(lao)(lao)(lao)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)們(men)(men)(men)祝壽,泗知(zhi)州(zhou)在盛宴(yan)(yan)(yan)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)講解雙(shuang)(shuang)(shuang)溝(gou)大(da)曲寓含成雙(shuang)(shuang)(shuang)成對(dui)、好事成雙(shuang)(shuang)(shuang)、福壽雙(shuang)(shuang)(shuang)全之(zhi)(zhi)意(yi),飲用雙(shuang)(shuang)(shuang)溝(gou)酒(jiu)(jiu)(jiu),老(lao)(lao)(lao)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)們(men)(men)(men)將長(chang)命百歲,福如東海(hai),壽比南(nan)山,溢美(mei)之(zhi)(zhi)詞令“千(qian)(qian)叟(sou)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)”上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)的壽星(xing)們(men)(men)(men)十分(fen)(fen)受用。康(kang)(kang)熙(xi)晚年(nian)(nian)時(shi),因臺灣(wan)再平(ping),八荒無事,自己又年(nian)(nian)屆七旬,再次(ci)舉辦(ban)“千(qian)(qian)叟(sou)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)”。這一(yi)次(ci)赴宴(yan)(yan)(yan)者(zhe)90歲以上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)的老(lao)(lao)(lao)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)33人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren),80歲以上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)的老(lao)(lao)(lao)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)538人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren),70歲以上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)的老(lao)(lao)(lao)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)1846人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren),共計2417人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)。第二次(ci)“千(qian)(qian)叟(sou)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)”在乾(qian)清宮(gong)(gong)舉行(xing),仍賜以雙(shuang)(shuang)(shuang)溝(gou)美(mei)酒(jiu)(jiu)(jiu),赴宴(yan)(yan)(yan)者(zhe)中在職官(guan)(guan)員(yuan)有(you)之(zhi)(zhi),告老(lao)(lao)(lao)還鄉退休(xiu)官(guan)(guan)員(yuan)有(you)之(zhi)(zhi),平(ping)民(min)老(lao)(lao)(lao)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)有(you)之(zhi)(zhi),還有(you)部分(fen)(fen)過(guo)去得罪(zui)被遣回原籍的舊(jiu)吏(li)。當(dang)時(shi)正值天氣(qi)(qi)晴和(he)、春光明媚、桃紅(hong)柳綠的時(shi)節,乾(qian)清宮(gong)(gong)座無虛席(xi),皇(huang)(huang)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)舉杯,一(yi)一(yi)賜飲雙(shuang)(shuang)(shuang)溝(gou)美(mei)酒(jiu)(jiu)(jiu),并(bing)特(te)別(bie)加恩(en):老(lao)(lao)(lao)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)們(men)(men)(men)在皇(huang)(huang)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)賜飲酒(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)時(shi)一(yi)律免于起(qi)立、跪拜,并(bing)讓老(lao)(lao)(lao)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)們(men)(men)(men)不(bu)(bu)要拘(ju)謹,大(da)眾奉(feng)諭(yu),開懷暢飲。酒(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)至(zhi)半酣,康(kang)(kang)熙(xi)親自賦詩祝賀老(lao)(lao)(lao)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)們(men)(men)(men)健(jian)康(kang)(kang)長(chang)壽,還命文(wen)臣(chen)們(men)(men)(men)按律作和(he),赴宴(yan)(yan)(yan)老(lao)(lao)(lao)人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)們(men)(men)(men)中不(bu)(bu)乏進(jin)士(shi)、狀(zhuang)元、榜眼、探花、傳臚(lu)之(zhi)(zhi)才,紛(fen)紛(fen)吟詩唱和(he),呈皇(huang)(huang)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)御(yu)覽,敬老(lao)(lao)(lao)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)上(shang)(shang)(shang)(shang)歡(huan)聲笑語不(bu)(bu)絕于耳,雙(shuang)(shuang)(shuang)溝(gou)美(mei)酒(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)滿(man)室盈香,宮(gong)(gong)廷鮮(xian)花暗(an)香浮動(dong),撩人(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)(ren)酒(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)興,整(zheng)場敬老(lao)(lao)(lao)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)會氣(qi)(qi)氛熱(re)烈,其樂融(rong)融(rong)。從午時(shi)飲至(zhi)黃昏,方(fang)告散(san)席(xi)。
康熙在六(liu)(liu)次(ci)南(nan)巡(xun)中兩次(ci)在泗(si)(si)州(zhou)(zhou)雙溝鎮(zhen)飲用全德(de)槽坊(fang)的上(shang)等(deng)美(mei)酒(jiu)(jiu)(jiu),泗(si)(si)知州(zhou)(zhou)兩次(ci)為皇(huang)(huang)上(shang)的“千叟(sou)宴”進(jin)貢雙溝美(mei)酒(jiu)(jiu)(jiu),萬(wan)歲爺與全國數千名老人(ren)共(gong)飲“雙溝”,故對“雙溝”十(shi)分鐘愛。康熙四(si)十(shi)六(liu)(liu)年(nian)(nian)(nian)第(di)六(liu)(liu)次(ci)南(nan)巡(xun)至泗(si)(si)州(zhou)(zhou),召見泗(si)(si)知州(zhou)(zhou)并口諭:“今(jin)后皇(huang)(huang)家重大(da)(da)(da)慶典和接待(dai)外(wai)邦首(shou)腦、使(shi)節一律用泗(si)(si)州(zhou)(zhou)所屬(shu)雙溝酒(jiu)(jiu)(jiu),每年(nian)(nian)(nian)例貢30壇,這(zhe)些酒(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)要(yao)選上(shang)等(deng)原料,精心釀制,風格各別,應(ying)由雙溝鎮(zhen)全德(de)槽坊(fang)特別釀造,第(di)一種供款待(dai)外(wai)國元首(shou)和駐大(da)(da)(da)清使(shi)節,它(ta)應(ying)能代表大(da)(da)(da)清帝國出產美(mei)酒(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)的水準(zhun),以揚我大(da)(da)(da)清帝國國威,就(jiu)叫它(ta)“帝坊(fang)”;第(di)二種供皇(huang)(huang)室招待(dai)文武大(da)(da)(da)臣(chen),以示(shi)圣(sheng)上(shang)對臣(chen)子的關懷、恩寵(chong),就(jiu)叫它(ta)“圣(sheng)坊(fang)”;第(di)三種專供皇(huang)(huang)上(shang)款待(dai)老人(ren),君民同(tong)飲,共(gong)享天(tian)年(nian)(nian)(nian),就(jiu)叫它(ta)“君坊(fang)”吧”。泗(si)(si)知州(zhou)(zhou)連連叩頭領(ling)命,每年(nian)(nian)(nian)逢國家盛典例供雙溝珍寶坊(fang)系列美(mei)酒(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)三十(shi)壇,由州(zhou)(zhou)府官員親自護送進(jin)京。泗(si)(si)州(zhou)(zhou)之地(di)年(nian)(nian)(nian)年(nian)(nian)(nian)水災,系窮鄉僻壤,能用雙溝美(mei)酒(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)進(jin)貢大(da)(da)(da)清朝廷,也(ye)是泗(si)(si)州(zhou)(zhou)地(di)方(fang)政府的一大(da)(da)(da)榮耀,泗(si)(si)州(zhou)(zhou)知州(zhou)(zhou)大(da)(da)(da)人(ren)是不(bu)敢怠慢的。
清代自康(kang)熙始舉辦敬老“千叟宴(yan)”,后來的雍正、乾(qian)隆等朝也紛紛效仿(fang),也分(fen)別舉辦過敬老“千叟宴(yan)”。乾(qian)隆皇帝(di)和他的祖父(fu)一樣,執政(zheng)時(shi)期六次南(nan)巡(xun)。其中乾(qian)隆二十七年(nian)三(san)月(公元1762年(nian))曾到臨淮(今(jin)泗洪臨淮鎮)、雙(shuang)溝(gou)、洪澤(ze)湖(hu)地(di)區視察水利,查(cha)看(kan)淮湖(hu)水患(huan)災害情況(kuang),指示河臣和地(di)方政(zheng)府要認真治理淮河、洪澤(ze)湖(hu),減(jian)少洪澇災害。當(dang)年(nian)在(zai)雙(shuang)溝(gou)全德槽(cao)坊(fang)用膳,就是飲酒(jiu)的雙(shuang)溝(gou)美酒(jiu)。本次乾(qian)隆視察河務御批在(zai)雙(shuang)溝(gou)建立“敕浚泗州境(jing)內挑修(xiu)河道工程碑(bei)”,至(zhi)今(jin)還保存在(zai)雙(shuang)溝(gou)鎮人民政(zheng)府大院內。
民國年間,泗(si)州改稱泗(si)縣,隸屬(shu)安徽(hui)省。民國二十三(san)年由(you)縣長魯佩璋主修的手抄(chao)本(ben)《泗(si)縣志略》記載(zai):“雙溝(gou)(gou)大曲(qu),據善飲者言,應推(tui)為全國之冠。”這一斷(duan)言與大清王朝康 、雍、乾(qian)等皇(huang)帝(di)用“雙溝(gou)(gou)”舉(ju)辦“千(qian)叟宴”招(zhao)待各界人士(shi)不無(wu)關(guan)系。尤其是幾(ji)代皇(huang)帝(di)舉(ju)辦數次“千(qian)叟宴”與數千(qian)老人、文武(wu)大臣同飲“雙溝(gou)(gou)”,對于“雙溝(gou)(gou)美酒(jiu)(jiu)”300余年保(bao)持美譽產(chan)生極其深遠(yuan)的影響。直至清末宣統二年雙溝(gou)(gou)大曲(qu)在南洋勸業會上榮(rong)獲(huo)國際名酒(jiu)(jiu)第一的殊榮(rong)應當(dang)是順(shun)理成(cheng)章(zhang)的事情。